Sunday, December 25, 2011

Snowmobile Salvage

!±8± Snowmobile Salvage

It doesn't matter what kind of vehicle you have. At some point, it's going to be scrap. It might be too old; it might have broken down or was involved in some sort of accident. The same holds true for snowmobiles as well and there are salvage yards dedicated to snowmobiles. Snowmobile salvage yards are the place to go when looking for parts for your snowmobile.

This is the place to go when you have looked everywhere, or when you are on a budget. Some of the parts that you find might be in great condition because they might come off a new snowmobile that was totaled, or some may be in terrible shape, like those that came from old snowmobiles. At these yards, you can find many models of retired snowmobiles, such as Polaris and Yamaha.

You can buy almost all kinds of parts from salvage yards. You can get drive train belts, fuel injection systems, carburetors and even tunnel grips. The owners of these snowmobile salvage yards determine the prices of the parts they sell. Sometimes these parts have been refurbished or are sold in an as is condition. The price of the parts is at their discretion. Also remember these parts do not have any warranty, so you need to put that into consideration before you make any purchases.

It's fairly easy to find a snowmobile salvage yard. You can locate those in your area by looking them up in the yellow pages, or the internet. If your area has a snowmobile association, you can consult with members there to see if they know of any yards. A salvage yards are great because if you're restoring an old snowmobile, you might just get the part there.


Snowmobile Salvage

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Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Review of KYMCO's 2008 ATV, UTV Lineup

!±8± Review of KYMCO's 2008 ATV, UTV Lineup

Anyone doubting KYMCO's committment to the off-road powersports market only needs to peruse the company's fast-growing lineup.

KYMCO has steadily refined its all-terrain products and broadened its offerings with each model year. The Taiwanese company's recent efforts included the so-so MXU 500 utility quad for 2007 and revamped 2008 Mongoose 250 and 300 sport quads.

This time around, KYMCO is getting even bolder, and has arrived at the table with the highly anticipated UXV 500 UTV and all-new MXU 375 utility ATV.

We recently traveled to the backyard of the company's US division, scenic South Carolina, to ride KYMCO's full line of 2008 products, and also spent some time behind the wheel of its first-ever UTV. At this point, one thing is for sure: KYMCO is taking notes and making serious strides to match its American and Japanese competitors in style, performance and product offerings.

Setting The Table
The setting was Carolina Adventure World, a still growing privately-owned off-road riding area with more than 100 miles of trails, a mud bog and three motocross tracks. We've ridden there before while visiting for Polaris and Kawasaki intros, and, just like KYMCO, the facility keeps getting better as it continues to mature.

Temperatures could have been a bit more spring-like, but skies were clear, the grass was green and conditions were ripe for some mud-splattered off-roading.

UXV Is UTV
Yamaha, Polaris, Arctic Cat and Kawasaki have their big-selling recreational side-by-side players in place. Honda's more work-minded Big Red is on the way soon, and Can-Am recently announced plans for what we expect to be a very athletic (RZR beating?) UTV. There had also been speculation KYMCO was readying its own entrant into the exploding category. Those rumors were confirmed after the company took the wraps off its new UXV 500 at the EICMA powersports show in Milan, Italy, last fall.

Then we got to see it for ourselves. Going off appearance alone, it seems the company had the Rhino, Teryx and Prowler firmly in its sights. Its traditional UTV design suggests a machine meant to split the difference between work and fun, just like the most successful players in the segment.

The spec sheet lists a 500cc four-stroke engine, independent suspension, locking front differential and a large tilting cargo bed capable of hauling 420 pounds - the main ingredients we call for when making a UTV.
Pricing had not been finalized at press time and a few minor specifications on the prototypes were still subject to change before final production.

Behind The Wheel
Time was limited, but we got the chance to experience KYMCO's UTV from the driver and passenger seats, as well as through thick mud, over steep hills and fording it through deep water.

We didn't get the chance to haul any cargo around, but our ride time gave us the much-appreciated chance to peek under the hood and rack up some miles with the UXV.

Lateral stability (i.e. rolling over) has been a thorn in the side of several UTVs. To this end, KYMCO decided to up the ante with a wide, stable platform that measures 59 inches wide. For comparison's sake, the Prowler is 61.3 inches wide and the Rhino measures 54.5 inches across.

The extra girth translated to flat, predictable handling that's more reassuring than some of the narrower competitors in high-speed corners. It made winding through the riding park's tight woods trails somewhat more challenging, though, and will also make it tricky to shoehorn the UXV into the back of a pickup truck.

Like the new Teryx, EFI wasn't included - obvious cost-cutting to help KYMCO compete on price and rush its model to the market. Without any need for the dash-mounted choke, our warmed-up UXV fired up quickly.

Stepping into the throttle, the liquid-cooled 500cc DOHC four-stroke felt moderately taxed by the 1,157-pound (dry) weight, but the power was enough to surmount steep hills and power the big guy through some impressive mud holes.
A little vibration was present, but engine refinement is in line with the bulk of the sport utility segment. The exhaust note sounds more agricultural than sporty, another common trait shared with nearly every other side-by-side.

It's all business inside the cabin with frills kept to a minimum. A center-mounted gauge cluster displays all the usual information, and the shifter is mounted on the center console between the seats. Shift action was spotty, as reverse gear didn't always engage when the lever was moved to "R." Hopefully this can be cleared up before final production.

Seating accommodations are right on the money with enough side bolstering to keep the riders in place. Foot room and dash positioning is also on target - definitely better than a few of its competitors.

Top speed is estimated at 45 mph - ideal for a vehicle of this size and purpose.

Suspension is a dual A-arm design that provides 7.5 inches of travel at both ends and 12.2 inches of ground clearance. The transmission includes high and low ranges, and also includes a differential lock. Stopping action comes from two discs in the front and a single disc brake in the rear.

The tilting cargo bed is large enough to handle full-size loads up to 420 pounds, and the tailgate has a simple latching system just like the Rhino's.
Our brief ride revealed a competent work vehicle that should have plenty of playtime capability. Pricing is still not finalized, but we expect it to undercut the competition by some measure. Time will tell. The UXV 500 4x4 will be available in red, green, gray and camo, with a 1-year factory warranty.
MXU 375

Our Carolina adventure also included time on prototypes for KYMCO's newest utility quad - the MXU 375.

After being underwhelmed by the company's last utility entrant, the MXU 500, we were pleasantly surprised by a competent package this time around. However, just like the 500, the MXU 375's sketchy front-end handling traits are a disappointment for aggressive trail riding.

Styling and build quality are solid, with competitive features and smart design that prove this company is fully in the running with its North American and Japanese competitors. Even with the chassis' occasionally unsettled front end, it remains a no-excuses mid-displacement utility quad.

While company officials won't confirm it, the new MXU's engine is shared with Arctic Cat's new 366 4x4 utility, and the base platform for the two models are eerily similar. We think the KYMCO version is the better looking twin. Its engine, a 366cc four-stroke, is adequately potent and smooth, a perfect match for its intended purpose.

As mentioned, handling was a mixed bag, and different machines on-hand had different configurations. The front-end handling is just as unstable as it is on the Arctic Cat variant over undulating ground - too much body roll, and steering that is easily thrown off-kilter.

The performance of the carbureted and fan-cooled engine is much better - smooth, with a refined exhaust note and torquey power delivery.

A few features on our test mules, like turn signals and hazard flashers, won't be making it to the final U.S. version and company engineers are still tweaking the final braking setup.

The main stats will see production unchanged - dual A-arm front and rear suspension (7 inches of travel), a CVT with high and low gears, and disc braking in front and out back.

When it comes to work credentials, the little MXU can strap 225 pounds to its racks, and tow 1,050 pounds in its wake.

This new 375 will make a solid competitor in the entry-level class, with a great engine leading the way. Like a few other manufacturers whose products share similar handling traits, KYMCO needs to focus its efforts on building vehicles that keep their composure around corners and uneven terrain. Its competent engine and attractive styling suggest a utility quad that has some sporty genes in its DNA. That's not really the case, but it's not far off the mark.

A Fresh Goose

Our previous evaluation of the new-and-improved Mongoose 300 at last fall's ATV Trials event showed a meaningful roster of changes that massaged the company's entry-level CVT sport quad into something more desirable than the original.

KYMCO added a (much-needed) sturdier chain and a larger carburetor, stretched the wheelbase with a longer swingarm, widened the track by a whopping five inches and softened up the overly-stiff front end with progressive rate springs.

In our latest test, the 'Goose tore through the tight trails of Carolina Adventure World with eagerness and balance. The CVT provided surprisingly snappy throttle response - more aggressive than expected. Listening to riders, taking notes and constantly evolving has served the company and its products well.

Power from the liquid-cooled 270cc engine could still be stronger, especially at the top end, but powertrain vibration wasn't an issue, so it's happy being pushed hard. Body roll is kept in check and the progressive rate springs produce a ride that's much more comfortable than the '07 model. The changes are especially noticeable over harsh trails.

A CVT tranny in a sport quad is still fairly uncommon, but was well-suited to the tight, winding trails we rode. Spunky performance, solid handling and a affordable sub-,800 price make this entry-level quad a smart choice for sport riders looking for the ease of a CVT.

While we didn't get the opportunity to ride it, the updates made to the '08 Mongoose 300 were also applied to the 250.

This pair of Mongooses (Mongeese?) is now up there with the best machines in the class.


Review of KYMCO's 2008 ATV, UTV Lineup

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Thursday, December 8, 2011

Polaris Trailblazer

2-stroke, 250cc oil injected (No need to mix oil), fully automatic with reverse. It runs mint. Just serviced at kenco cleaned carb new plug new battery new grips new barkbusters new headlight bulb Really fun and easy to drive sport quad. Tonnes of power. Goes everywhere the bikes and 4x4 atvs go. Will sell for 2200 obo or trade, Trade for larger sport quad and I can cash to add. Thanks

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Thursday, December 1, 2011

How to Build a Go Kart - 5 Go Kart Building Secrets

!±8± How to Build a Go Kart - 5 Go Kart Building Secrets

To make a go kart that corners on rails like a Porche, looks like a Ferrari and turns all your neighbor's heads we need to back up the truck and go to the beginnings.

In short hand, there are five steps to making a simple frame. First of all the following steps are:

1. Engine And Passenger Layout
2. Drive Train System
3. Steering System
4. Brake System
5. Throttle System

Let's get into it now....

1. Engine And Passenger Layout

First of all the assumption, whether this go-kart is made out of wood or is made out of steel is that you have some sort of layout in mind. Typically the engine is behind, and the person sits in front of the engine. A good safe layout is to have a seat protect the passenger from the engine.

So a structure of some sort is needed to hold the seat in place. You can use a seat off of a chair, but a more protective seat is a ½ piece of plywood angled back and supported. Covering the piece of wood is optional, but it is more comfortable with basically a piece of heavy cloth covering a cushion. The cloth is stapled typically into the board (on the backside).

The structure supporting the seat can be wood, or steel.

The frame work can be wood or steel as well. If using wood, use two by fours placed vertically, so that the strength of the wood is optimized.

If you are using steel for the frame, use a tubing that is at least .070 wall or thicker. The length of the frame is really dictated by how big the person is. Have a person sit comfortably in the leaned back position with a steering wheel in their hands. That is the person compartment. Measure this length.

Add the engine drive section and the person compartment lengths together and that is the length of the gokart. Cut your frame tubes (or tack tubes together) to this length. You will need at least two parallel lengths of tubing.

Space the tubes apart the width of the seat you made (20 inches is a good width).

Cut at least four (4) tubes to the 20 inch length. Lay all the pieces on the floor. Place the 20 inchers at the following locations: Engine Plate area, seat back section, seat forward section, front main bumper tube, and rear main bumper tube. (The bumper tubes can be wider than the frame by 12 inches (6 inches per side).)

Tack the tubes in place using a welder. If you do not have a welder, then you can fasten them together using plates and bolts. (Trust me, buy a 0 welder and save yourself wood chips and drill bits, busted knuckles and exasperation!)

What you have put together now is what I term a "flat-go kart." You will soon find out that flat gokart frames are weak and require extra stiffening. You may want to put some struts into the system to bolster the frame design. Typically what I use is the seat back as reference. This works very well as an integral frame support, side seat holder, and engine protector.

2. Drive Train System

The next sequence is to place your engine and drive train system in place. At the same time put your seat in position to make sure the seat and engine are not hitting each other. Be sure to make the seat removable so that you can actually work on the engine system when needed.

When placing your engine typically a plate is needed to hold the engine onto the frame. Some designers use tubes with holes drilled in them for engine placement. I prefer the plate option, because it gives me greater options as far as engine choices in the future.

For example on the Phi-Alpha-10 and the Phi-Alpha-9 (go karts I designed) the engine plate served well in allowing me to use different engines, whether Briggs and Stratton, Tecumseh or even Honda. All engine types could be easily mounted just by drilling the holes in the motor mount plate.

Most go karts use a slot system to keep the chain tight. In other words, the engine is mounted not using holes but slots. That works, but honestly, drilling slots is intensive works and requires some patience and thought. So I prefer tensioning the chain, it works better on multiple fronts. (I can go on and on about engines, drive trains and such...but we have got to keep moving here...)

A word about drive systems: A live axle system is really the way to go. All you have to do is mount two bearing brackets and away you go. On a one wheel drive system, you need to have special rims that contain bearings, special drive sprockets that connect to the tires, and the axle if it gets bent, you have to cut it out of the frame and start over....so use a live axle...

But, that is not all true. You can get away with using old lawnmower wheels if they have bushings in them. They work great for acting as bearings. Grease snot out of the axel-hub interface and away you go. Be sure to retain the wheel with a cross bolt that is at least grade 5.

3. Steering System

So after having mounted the rear axle (with brake disc (or brake drum) and sprocket), and having placed the engine and chain system in place, proceed to mounting the front steering system.

Before we did some measurements of the person sitting in the comfortable position, make sure you remember the measurement (relative to the go kart frame) of the steering wheel. That is the target point for the steering wheel.

The actual position of the front wheels is a bit more involved though. You will need a scale. Place the scale first of all under the rear wheels. I typically use a board placed across the rear frame rails underneath the wheel area. Have someone sit in the go kart. (Be sure to a have the front wheels, steering wheel and steering structure on the go kart when you weigh it)

Now proceed to the front of the go kart and place the board in the general area that you want the steering system. Again weigh the go kart.

Take the two weights and add them together. That is the total weight. The front weight ideally should be with-in 5 to ten pounds of the rear weight. This is called 50/50 weight distribution. The more weight you have on the rear, the more the go kart will under-steer. Meaning, when you turn the wheel the go kart will tend to keep going straight. The more weight you have on the front wheels, the more the go kart will over steer. Most drivers are used to under-steer, it is easier to recover from.

But I digress...

Once you have placed the front wheels in place then fix the front steering system in place there. I typically use plates, so that I can move the steering system back or forward. So I weld mating plates on the frame and the steering system, then bolt them together.

For wood go karts, you can actually design a very stable wood go kart using the carriage style steering as long as the steering is supported an not aloud to twist.

A word on steering systems: You can purchase from the store steering assemblies that you tack onto tubes. These work real well, with one exception, they typically come in .750 inch diameter shafts, where most high speed bearings use .625 diameter shafts. The shafts may need replacement. Look for .625 shafts... Additionally, there are ways to make the steering more tractable and more user friendly, these involve geometric relationships such as camber, caster, Ackerman and so forth.

4. Brake System

Now that you have the steering system in position, you can button up the hole project by covering the bottom of the go kart. Sheet metal (like furnace guys use) is the best option. Buy some tech screws (the ones with drills on their ends) and zip through the sheet metal into the tubing. Once you have that in place, you don't have to worry about your feet hitting the ground!

Now it is time to place the brake system. You notice we placed the brakes in place on the live axle, now the actual braking mechanism needs to be mounted to the frame work. You can either weld it, or bolt it to the frame. I prefer bolting, it is more forgiving and easier to repair.

A word on brake float: The brake system should float. What that means is that the disc either needs to be mounted freely on the shaft, or the brake caliper needs to float. If the neither is floating, you will get a binding, and prematurely worn out brakes, and fast! So keep that in mind. Something has to float, the disc or the brake caliper (1 of the 5!)

For your brakes it is important to have the brake off while driving. A good spring is needed to keep the pedal back when the brake is not being used.

On a wood go kart be sure to use the same thought into the brake system. A lot of force is going into the brake boards so be sure to account for this in the brake mechanism which usually involves force multiplier linkages.

5. Throttle System

This seems like the most inane or over looked system on the go kart. It shouldn't be though. A good connection between the throttle and the pedal is needed and a good range of motion is needed too. Most pedals give you different holes to work with, allowing your several options in throttle actuation.

Again, like the brake, a good spring is needed. Do not use a spring on the carburetor, but use the spring in the pedal, or pedal system.

A word about throttles: most engines come with governors. It is a good idea to use the governor system, because it helps keep the engine at even speeds and from over revving.


How to Build a Go Kart - 5 Go Kart Building Secrets

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